Done!

Penngrove, CA

Through the Gate

Intermezzo and I passed through the Golden Gate into San Francsco Bay at 1pm this past Sunday afternoon, marking the end of my San Francisco Bash and the return of Intermezzo to the bay after almost nine years of voyaging. 

Powerful feelings welled up as I entered the bay. My mind was alive with memories, as if I was watching retrospective highlights from an epic movie, a melodrama. So much has happened over the past nine years - love, birth, death, injury, illness, separation, aging, political dysfunction - all while the beauty of the ocean, coastlines and nature, of life, blessed me on my little ship, my home on the sea. I felt a deep sadness, for something special that seemed to be coming to an end, like when graduating from high school or college. A sense of accomplishment, completion, too, so more like tears of joy than of grief.

Weather was kind to me for the last passage of my bash, the wind blowing from the south and allowing me to sail all the way from Half Moon Bay. The wind was blowing hard through the foggy gate and there was a strong flood current, so Intermezzo rushed into the bay at over 10 knots and kept up that pace until we had to jibe after passing Angel Island.  I was a bit concerned, the main sail being fully hoisted in 27 knots of wind, making the jibe tricky and, afterwards, wondering if I would be able to douse the sail singlehanded. But, of course, the Richmond Riviera! Angel Island blocks the wind and fog from the gate, creating a zone of calm, warm weather in its lee. I steered Intermezzo for a calm patch, the wind dropped to 8 knots, I dropped the main sail, unfurled the jib, headed downwind towards the Richmond Channel and took off my foul weather gear, down jacket and hat.

The Richmond Riviera in the lee of Angel Island

As we passed familiar landmarks, I began to feel at home in the bay, though it also felt small and crowded after being on the ocean for so long. There's a lot of traffic to dodge and I had to remember to pay attention to which tack, port or starboard, I and other boats were on to respect sailing rules of the road.

We tied up to our slip in Marina Bay Yacht Harbor, the same slip we departed from in October 2015. It felt good to be done, but I also felt out-of-place in such an urban environment, in a giant boat parking lot. I cleaned up the boat, took a walk, ate another crappy dinner and went to bed.

Yesterday Nate picked me up on his way home from work and drove me to the Ranch. I'm off the boat after 57 straight days at sea. It is neither foggy nor cold here. Nice.

Life will be different now. It feels strange to be apart from Intermezzo and for the boat's prominence in my life to greatly diminished for some time.

Intermezzo on "Catamaran Row" in Marina Bay Yacht Harbor

Home Stretch

Pacific Ocean, Off Pillar Point CA

We're on the home stretch, the last segment of the final leg of my San Francisco Bash. We just left Pillar Point Harbor at 8:30am this morning and are on our way to the Golden Gate in calm seas, in some fog that looks like it might clear. We expect to arrive in Marina Bay Yacht Harbor around 3pm this afternoon. We'll be done.

After rescuing the person in the water at the dock yesterday morning, we headed into Monterey Bay in the fog against a 15 knot headwind and steep 2-3 foot seas, a nasty wind chop, Bashing Level (BL) 2. Very unpleasant. And cold. We powered on, resolute.

After noon, the wind eased some and so did the waves, down to a sustained BL 1. Better. We powered on, happier.

Around 1pm, I noticed the sailing vessel Rabbit Hole on the Automatic Identification System (AIS) and radar display that was changing course frequently. I watched closely and it looked like they were searching for or trying to recover something or somebody that had fallen overboard. I hailed them on the radio to see if they needed assistance but did not get a reply. When I looked at the boat through the binoculars, I identified it as a sloop about 46 feet long, probably a Jeanneau.

It occurred to me that Arnstein said he would be teaching an Offshore Passage Maker course on a Jeanneau of that length when he got back to San Francisco. On a lark, I sent him a text message asking if he might, by chance, be out here.  I didn't get a reply to my text, but soon after, Intermezzo was hailed on the radio by Rabbit Hole and, sure enough, it was Arnstein's voice! They had been conducting a crew overboard drill. We laughed at the coincidence of being at the same place at the same time on the ocean, and Arnstein welcomed me and Intermezzo back to San Francisco. Rabbit Hole paid us a visit this morning before we raised anchor, sailing around us and saying hello.

Around 5pm the fog burned off and we enjoyed the approach to Pillar Point Harbor in fine weather. The green coastal hills towered over the ocean, I saw a few whales spouting in the distance and many, many sea birds. It was still chilly out, but I'm always happier in the sunshine.

We dropped anchor at 6:40pm, I had beer, a shot of tequila, chips and guacamole for a snack, then took a nap. When I woke up, I had a crappy dinner of Trader Joe's tortellini (not recommended) with Hunts Quatro Queso tomato sauce (also not recommended) and went to bed shortly thereafter, falling to sleep on calm water to the sound of the foghorn at the harbor entrance bleating every 10 seconds.

R&R in Monterey, Back to Bashing

Monterey Bay

Intermezzo on the dock in Monterey Harbor Marina

Intermezzo is back to bashing on the way to Half Moon Bay after a couple days of pleasant shore leave in Monterey. We departed the Monterey Harbor Marina at 7:30am this morning after a bit of drama, recovering a guy who fell off his boat and couldn't haul himself out onto the dock. The water here is cold, so a minor emergency.  Fortunately I and another guy on the dock heard the victim's cries for help and together were able to haul him out of the water. The other guy gave him a sleeping bag and I made him a hot cup of tea to warm him up and all was well enough for me to leave the dock.

It's bouncy out here this morning, closely spaced 2-4ft steep seas just off the port bow. Bashing Level 2 to start (hopefully) diminishing to BL 1 as we get further off Point Piños. I don't miss not bashing.

The trip to Monterey from Port San Louis (San Louis Obispo) was foggy, cold and lonely. After saying goodbye to Luther in the morning, I slept for a few hours and then slipped the mooring lines at 1pm to head out into the fog. I was soon in contact with a tug with a long tow to negotiate how we would pass by each other in the thick fog. The dodging of other vessels would continue sporadically into and through the night.

The night was foggy, cold and damp and I felt alone and isolated. I balanced staying alert with pacing my self for the long night's passage.

Dressed warm after a cold, foggy night's passage

Just before dawn, the skies cleared and I was treated to a nice warming sunrise as we approached Cypress Point, the fairways of the famous Pebble Beach golf course visible on shore. As we rounded Point Piños, Monterey Harbor came into view like a picture postcard, bright blue sky and sea, welcoming. After friendly harbormaster staff checked us into the marina, I ate a hot breakfast, took a hot shower and laid down to get some rest.

A welcome warming sunrise and clear skies nearing Pebble Beach

My July 4th Independence Day was not much of event. I took a walk around the old town, stopping at an English pub to enjoy a couple of We Forgive You Day beers and to eat lunch along the way. The weather was lovely, sunny, warm in the sun, cool in the shade, a gentle breeze. I headed back to the boat around 8pm with the intention of taking a nap, but ended up falling sound asleep in my clothes for the whole night. Guess I was tired after 21 hours of sailing in the cold fog and the beers hit me!

Yesterday morning I ran along the trail to Pacific Grove, had a nice breakfast at LuLu's on Wharf #2 (not the tourist wharf), then walked to West Marine to pick up a couple of things, returning via the beach. Another day of beautiful weather.

The trail to the beach heading back from West Marine

I enjoyed a family visit in the afternoon, Nicholas, JoAnna and Mikayla were in town to visit the aquarium and have dinner with friends. My main focus was on indoctrinating three year-old Mikayla to the boat, with the hope of her joining on as crew in my elder years of sailing. She explored the boat, tied all my lines into a web of knots, jumped on the trampoline. We took the dinghy out for an excursion to get close up views of sea lions and sea otters, though Mikayla found the feel of the water running through her fingers, the floating kelp (aka "muck"), and guano coating the rocks (aka "smelly bird poop") more interesting and amusing. We had a great time.

Mikayla (inverted), Nicholas and me on the tramp

Mikayla's rope work

I closed out the day with a nice dinner at a Greek restaurant in town, then prepared Intermezzo for departure, adding some diesel from jugs to the fuel tanks, topping off a water tank and securing deck and cabin.

This is the next to last leg of my voyage to San Francisco. We'll overnight in Pilar Point Harbor and then time our departure tomorrow to catch a fair tide through the Golden Gate and into San Francisco Bay.

Farewell to Luther

Pacific Ocean, Near Point Buchon

Farewell to Luther, too early in the morning for the sea lion sleeping on the dock

Yesterday's passage from the Cojo Anchorage to Port San Louis (San Louis Obispo) began with kelp dodging. During the night, the wind had backed from the northwest to the southeast and kelp fronds that drifting out of our way coming into the anchorage were now drifting into our path. Dodging the nasty weeds woke us up from a night of less-than-perfect sleep due to rocking at anchor as the wind shifted and the swell did not.

Rounding Point Conception and Point Arguello, "The Cape Horn of California", was a bit uncomfortable as we headed directly into a strong 6-7ft swell. Along the way, I noticed a "fragrance" that I perceived as herbal, like cut vegetation. I asked Luther to take a sniff and he said, "Petrochemical". Sure enough, we saw globs of oil and patches of sheen on the water. I will be careful about what I choose for aftershave from now on, seeking a second opinion.

The patches of oil were frequent enough and oil platforms were close to us, so I contacted the Coast Guard to report the conditions. The Coast Guard took down quite a bit of information over the radio and informed me that they would file a report with the National Response Center on my behalf and I should expect to be contacted by them. I probably gave half a dozen government people something to do and annoyed as many oil platform managers.

Once we rounded the Cape Horn of California and patted ourselves on the back for our skillful seamanship, the seas began to calm to a more gentle 4-6ft swell off our port bow. As we passed by Point Pedernales and "Destroyer Rock",  I gave a nod of respect for those lost during the largest peacetime loss of US Navy ships, the Honda Point Disaster. Seven destroyers crashed into the rocks there in 1923 due to a navigational blunder in heavy fog, five were lost, two managed to pull themselves off. Twenty-three sailors died in the incident.

Our passage to Port San Louis was cold and grey, motoring under either overcast skies or in a fog bank. Luther and I were wearing long underwear, down jackets and foul weather gear and feeling chilly, while the rest of California baked in a heat wave.

We took a public mooring ball in Port San Louis at 3:45pm yesterday afternoon, then took the dinghy to the pier to explore shoreside. On the way we enjoyed watching sea otters playing with each other in the water. They are very cute animals. We saw lots of sea lions and seals, most of them lounging on a platform just off the pier and barking at each other.

Getting onto the pier involves tying the dinghy's stern to a mooring ball, its bow to a ladder and then climbing up the ladder 10ft to get to the top of the pier and through a little gate onto its walkway. You have to squeeze your dinghy between the other two or three dinghies tied up to the same points. Not too difficult when arriving, as your are on the outside. But when you return, you can be in the middle and have to yank on the various dinghy lines while hanging from the ladder to get yours within stepping distance. I felt younger than my years doing those gymnastics.

We took a short walk, then stopped in at Merseas restaurant on the pier for bowls of clam chowder and beer. When we returned to Intermezzo, the mooring ball had found its way between the hulls like they often due and I had to start the engines and back away to get it out. The metal ring on the top of the buoy left a decent scratch on the underside of the bridge deck. Bah. Mooring balls are a pain in the ass for catamarans. Fortunately, the wind, current and boat cooperated to avoid it from happening again during the night.

Early this morning I dropped Luther off at floating drop-off dock at the base of the pier and he caught a bus back to San Jose. I am sorry to see him go. I enjoyed his company and appreciate his help in getting Intermezzo another 166nm closer to San Francisco Bay.

I went back to the boat and slept for the rest of the morning in preparation for the overnight passage to Monterey. We slipped the mooring lines at 1pm and headed out to sea. It's a 118nm trip along the coast, calm conditions but fog all the way. I expect to arrive in Monterey Harbor around 9am on July 4th. I'm told by the harbormaster that they will find a slip for me, just let them know when I'm an hour out. I hope that information is accurate

We've sailed 1,805nm since leaving Puerto Peñasco on May 9th, 220nm left to go.  I'm feeling the time and the distance, a bit weary, but also glad to be getting close to the end.

A Little Bashing

Cojo Anchorage, CA

Sunset in the Cojo Anchorage, looking at Point Conception

We're anchored along the south shore of Point Conception in the Cojo Anchorage. This anchorage is where boats wait for a weather window for rounding the point, which the Coastal Pilot says is called "the Cape Horn of California". A bit of an exaggeration, I think, but rounding this point does require caution and planning. The anchorage provides shelter from waves but not from wind, which is blowing around 15 knots from the NW now, at 9:30pm. Winds are forecast to begin calming around midnight and to be very light tomorrow morning. We'll shoot for raising anchor around 7am.

We left Channel Island Harbor this morning at 7:30am after topping off the diesel tanks at the fuel dock. Diesel cost only $4.40/gallon, less than half what we paid Enrique in Turtle Bay, and about $1.50/gallon less than the average price in Mexico. A welcome relief to my wallet.  It was overcast, foggy and bleak until around 2pm when the sun came out and then it was very pleasant, though cool out in the wind. As we drew closer to Point Conception the wind and seas increased, building to Bashing Level 2 for about an hour.  We had to dodge kelp forests as we entered the anchorage and dropped anchor in 45 feet of water to stay out of the weed.

The highlight of yesterday's passage from Redondo Beach to Channel Island Harbor were the large flocks of shearwaters, pelicans and seagulls together with pods of dolphins enjoying a feast of some type of sea critter. Hundreds of birds floating on the surface, pelicans diving from the air, seagulls harassing, stealing and scavenging food bits, and dozens of dolphins churning the water, all have tons of fun it seemed.

We tied to a public dock in Channel Island Harbor yesterday evening and walked to a seafood restaurant where we had a feast of our own, oysters, fish and chips, salad.

Intermezzo at public dock in Channel Islands Harbor

Assuming our weather window opens tomorrow morning for rounding the point, we'll be in San Louis Obispo Harbor by late afternoon. Luther will be leaving Intermezzo the next morning, leaving me to finish the journey to San Francisco on my own.

Another Easy Passage

Santa Monica Bay, CA

Luther at the helm, Intermezzo under sail

Luther and I enjoyed an easy passage from Newport Beach to Redondo Beach yesterday. The weather was clear, sunny and cool, the seas calm and we even got to sail the last hour-plus of the passage, a nice reach as we turned north to round Point Vincente.

The day started off well with Luther coming up with a good idea of extracting the little kelp bulb that got stuck in the port engine's raw water intake the previous day. I had tried fishing it out of the hose with a coat hanger, getting close but no cigar. Luther suggested using the shop vac to suck it out. We had the little bugger out in no time.

Kelp bulb bugger successfully extracted!

We had to pass by the ports of Long Beach and Los Angeles, which are usually busy with ship traffic, but none of the big ships were moving, all were at anchor or in port. We motored past them and the oil platforms that occasionally flared off gas in a big plume of flame.

Tankers at anchor, Port of Los Angeles

Lots of traffic, but none of the big ships moving

Oil platform off LA

I'm enjoying Luther's company. He's good crew and it's nice having a block of time with just him on the boat, without distractions. We don't get to see each other often nowadays.

In my last post, I mentioned Intermezzo's salon "navigation station". A little elaboration on the set up may be of interest to some. I have an old iPad mounted to the forward window frame that repeats the multifunction display (MFD) at the helm. This is usually set to display radar. I can keep watch visually through the salon windows (almost 360 degrees), augmented by radar. I have my other iPad running Navionics charts for navigation. I also have the PredictWind and Windy weather apps running on this iPad, which, via the Starlink internet connection, give me "live" weather and up-to-date forecasts while underway. I also have a wireless remote for the autopilot. So I can pretty much pilot Intermezzo as I recline on the settee in the salon. I actually make a point of getting up and looking around from the helm station regularly, so as to not get lulled into complacency. Or fall asleep.

Intermezzo's salon "navigation station", charts on the iPad to the left, radar on the iPad to the right

We pulled into Kings Harbor in Redondo Beach just after 4pm as the fog began rolling in. We tied up to a mooring ball with a "slime line". The mooring ball pennant is tied to the bow and then you pull on the slime line to reach another mooring line that you tie to the stern to keep the boat from swinging. They can pack more boats into a mooring field this way, though there were lots of empty spaces.  There is a platform in the middle of the mooring field on which dozens of sea lions lounge about, barking at each other and at anything or anyone that disturbs them.

Redondo Beach mooring configuration, with "slime line"

Redondo Beach is much less fancy than Newport Beach. There didn't look like much to see on shore, it was cold and damp out, so we opted for staying on the boat and enjoying a hot dinner, followed by freshly baked chocolate chip cookies.

We detached Intermezzo from the mooring early this morning and headed out into the fog. It's been clearing up since, but still overcast. We're heading to Oxnard, where we'll take a slip at the public dock. It should be a calm, uneventful passage.

It looks like there will be a good weather window for rounding Point Concepcion on July 2. I won't be able to linger there if I want to catch the next patch of calm weather for my overnight single-handed passage to Monterey. Looks like I'll be leaving San Louis Obispo on the evening of July 3.

Not a Bash

Newport Beach Harbor, CA

Intermezzo anchored in the middle of a racecourse

Yesterday's trip from San Diego was definitely not a bash. The weather was beautiful, the seas were calm and, if I didn't have to make an unfamiliar anchorage before nightfall, I could have sailed, downwind (!), half the way to Newport Beach.

We pushed off the San Diego Police Dock at 6am yesterday morning. It was peaceful but overcast and I felt my aloneness as I motored into the main channel, while also feeling good about being underway again after almost a week's shore leave. As we cleared the channel and began rounding Point Loma, the sun rose above the overland cloud cover and bathed the ocean in bright, warm sunlight. My spirits lifted, I doffed my foul weather gear and settled into keeping Intermezzo on course and avoiding traffic along the 64nm rhumbline to the Newport Beach harbor entrance.

By afternoon, the skies cleared completely, the seas had flattened and we were motor sailing under the jib in a light southwesterly wind. No bashing got a bit boring, so I stood watch at the salon "navigation station" and caught up on my reading.

Intermezzo's salon "navigation station"

One thing that happens heading north along the Pacific coast is kelp. We began encountering patches of the thick seaweed around Turtle Bay in Baja and by San Diego it grows in forests. We avoid it by staying offshore and keeping an eye out for floating breakaway clumps. Yesterday, the port engine began spewing steam from the exhaust, indicating a cooling problem. I opened up the engine hatch and, sure enough, there was a little kelp float bulb captured in the raw water intake strainer. Thankfully, the bulb dislodged from the raw water intake piping, cooling water flow was restored, and the engine was back to normal.  I expect we'll run into more kelp when we anchor in Cojo before rounding Point Concepcion. I'm already figuring out how to rig the bread knife on a pole to cut kelp away from the anchor when we raise it.

We arrived at the Newport Beach sea buoy at 5pm and made our way through the busy harbor to the public anchorage. We dropped anchor at 5:45pm, just before the start of the evening's small boat racing regatta that uses the anchorage as a race course.  Intermezzo was a formidable obstacle in the middle of the course, like a small island. Dozens of racing boats swarmed around us, some passing by only a couple feet away. By 7pm it was over and Intermezzo and I had the anchorage to ourselves for a peaceful evening and night's sleep.

Luther arrives in a couple of hours. I'll take the dinghy to go pick him up at a nearby public dock. Newport Beach Harbor is very pleasant, but they have a strange rule for anchored boats. You can only leave your boat unattended once during the day and for not more than three hours. I'm hoping that my trip to pick up Luther doesn't count against my allowance and that we can take a (brief!) shore excursion later this afternoon. 

The Last Leg Begins

San Diego, CA

I begin the last leg of my San Francisco Bash early tomorrow morning, setting sail for Newport Beach where my son Luther will join Intermezzo for a stretch.

I've enjoyed my R&R break here on the Police Dock in San Diego. I've actually been socializing!  I was treated to dinner at the San Diego Yacht Club by my good friend Jerry, who took me sailing on a Tiger 7.5 sport boat the next day. I reunited with Jeanne, who crewed with Renee and I on the 2015 Baja Ha-Ha. And I enjoyed really, really nice cool, sunny weather.

We'll complete the last leg in eight segments:

• San Diego to Newport Beach
• Newport Beach to Redondo Beach
• Redondo Beach to Oxnard
• Oxnard to Cojo Anchorage
• Cojo Anchorage to San Louis Obispo
• San Louis Obispo to Monterey
• Monterey to Half Moon Bay
• Half Moon Bay to San Francisco Bay

Luther will crew as far as San Louis Obisbpo, then I'm on my own unless someone decides to join me. All the segments are day sails, except for San Louis Obispo to Monterey, which is an overnighter.  Two tricky points to round, Point Concepcion and Point Sur. We'll wait in the Cojo Anchorage and probably round Concepcion at night. Point Sur will require careful departure planning to round during calm weather; if conditions aren't good there is nothing else to do but turn around and sail back 60nm to San Louis Obispo.

The weather forecasts look promising. If they hold, I should be in San Francisco Bay on July 9. But we'll see; I'm taking it one segment at a time.

 

Baja Bash Complete!

San Diego, CA

Intermezzo's happy captain and crew upon arrival in San Diego

Intermezzo's Baja Bash is over! We pulled into the San Diego public dock at 8:30am this morning ending the second leg of my voyage back to San Francisco.  We sailed 816nm from Los Cabos over 12 days, including three lay days waiting for a weather window in Man O' War Cove. We burned a lot of diesel fuel.

The trip from Ensenada was uneventful, a patch of mild bashing along the way but otherwise relatively comfortable. We cleared into the United States effortlessly using the Customs and Border Patrol's "Roam" app which notified me on my phone that my trip was approved and the three of us onboard are cleared to enter the US. Arnstein and Jimmy had breakfast and then headed to the airport, Jimmy to fly home, Arnstein to pick up a rental car and drive to Ventura to deliver another boat to San Francisco.

All-in-all it was a good trip, better than I had imagined. We bashed some, but Arnstein timed our passages successfully to minimize pain. Jimmy earned his place among the top crew members who have sailed on Intermezzo. Nothing broke on the boat, nobody was injured, we ate well, we got along well with each other.

I'll take a short break here before leaving on the third and final leg of my San Francisco Bash on June 27th. We've covered over 1,500nm since leaving Puerto Peñasco on May 8th, click here to see our track. Roughly another 440nm to go.

I'm going to take a long walk and stop at a pub to enjoy a craft beer along the way. It will feel good to stretch my legs and be off the boat for a spell.  The weather is beautiful, sunny with a cool breeze.

Last Segment, Second Leg

Pacific Ocean, 20nm NW of Ensenada

We left Ensenada tonight just before 10pm for San Diego, the last segment of the Baja Bash from Los Cabos. We are mildly bashing (BL !) under a near-full solstice moon. There is kelp floating in these waters and we have had to clear the propellers of the weed a few times by running the engines in reverse. We should arrive in San Diego around 9am tomorrow morning.

We pulled into Ensdeana last night at about 8:30pm, ahead of schedule thanks to the little Yammers. We enjoyed a good night's motionless sleep in the Cruiseport marina. This morning we headed to the Port Captain, immigration and customs to check out of Mexico, then enjoyed a nice lunch at Arnstein's favorite taco stand in town. In the afternoon, we cleaned up the boat. We had dinner at Arnstein's favorite restaurant.

It's going to be a big deal for me to be finishing the Baja Bash tomorrow morning. I've been sailing (motoring) since May 8th, many miles under the keels and will have completed two of the three legs of my San Fransico Bash. Intermezzo will be back in the USA and, after a few days rest in San Diego, we'll begin the final leg back to our home port. So much has happened since leaving there in 2015, memories often cause strong feelings to arise, joy, sadness, gratitude, regret, humility. Life sailing Intermezzo  has been full and wholehearted. 

Hell Didn't Break Loose

Pacific Ocean, Off Punta San Antonia, Baja California

Well, hell didn't break loose as we exited the lee of Isla Cedros. The wind blew just below 20 knots, there was a decent swell, but it was only Bashing Level (BL) 2 for an hour or so. We did, however, encounter a rogue wave that rinsed the solar panels, ten feet above the waterline. I ducked and was saved an early morning salt water bath.

We've now passed Punta San Antonio and the Sacramento Reef that lies off the point, where we figured we had one more patch of rough conditions to push through. They didn't materialize and so we've been motoring comfortably in non-bash conditions all day and expect to continue doing so the rest of the way to Ensenada.

ETA Ensenada is 1am Thursday morning. When we get there, after beers and some sleep, we'll officially clear out of Mexico, refuel and get some fish tacos. It's a quick turnaround, though. We depart for San Diego just before midnight to arrive there Friday morning.

So Far, So Good

Pacific Ocean, In the Lee of Isla Cedros, Baja California

We departed Turtle Bay at 6pm as planned and headed out to sea under clear skies, the sun soon to set.

The first four hours were pretty bumpy, Bashing Level (BL) 2, with 20 knot headwinds and steepish 3-foot  seas. When we passed Isla Navidad and turned east to head into the lead of Isla Cedros, the seas were on our beam turning the bashing into recking from side-to-side.

We’ve been in the lee of Cedros now for several hours and enjoying shelter from winds and waves. There is now slight chop on the nose as we approach the northern end of the island, so I’ll call it BL 1, barely.

However once we get past the Cedros, I expect all hell to break loose (exaggeration) as we encounter winds that accelerate around the tip of the island, accompanied by steep wind waves. I’m figuring on Bl 3 for a few hours, then receding to BL 2 for a ways, perhaps less if we’re lucky.

About 12 hours from now we’ll encounter our last gauntlet of wind and waves as we pass Punta San Antonio. That is likely to be a four hour roller coaster ride against a 0.7 knot foul current. The little Yanmars will be earning their $8.90/gallon diesel.

Fuel and Helping Hands

Bahía de Tortugas, Baja California

We anchored in Turtle Bay early this afternoon and immediately made arrangements for fuel delivery. Things were looking good with the fuel, the price per liter was steep but not outlandish and the quantity verified correct. The only problem was we didn’t have pesos to pay for it all; I had planned on paying with a credit cart in Asuncion. We had to pay for about half in dollars at and exchange rate of 15 MXP/USD. Today’s official rate is 18.5. Ouch.

When we arrived a single-hander called us on the radio asking for assistance. His dinghy was damaged on his way here from Ensenada and he needed help getting onto the deck of his boat. When we got there, he broke down, telling us how frightened he was in strong winds and big seas, barely able to control his boat, sails getting twisted up, parts of the boat breaking. He thought he might die. His poor dog lay in the cabin, nearly motionless; it probably thought it was going to die, too. We listened to his story, consoled him, got his dinghy on deck and did our best to sort out his boat so that he could sail it more safely alone. He is clearly in over his head and his boat definitely not set up for single-handing. He told me he was bringing it to haul out in Puerto Peñasco, ending where my bash began. I wished him the best, but expect the journey ahead of him will be a difficult one. 

It looks like 6pm tomorrow is a good time for us to leave to minimize bashing and catch some calmer weather for the long leg to Ensenada. Intermezzo should be back in the USA by Friday.

Pacific Ocean, 50nm SW Bahía de Tortugas, Baja California

Tonight was the worst bashing so far on this Baja Bash, Bashing Level (BL) 3. Strong 20 knot-plus headwinds, steep seas, bows rising into the air, slamming into the sea, water crashing into the forward windows, streaming along the decks, foggy, less than a mile viz, cold, damp. You just want it to be over.

And it is. We’re motoring along on smooth seas,, nearly no wind, making over six knots. It is still very foggy and very damp. Intermezzo has pulled through the bashing well, a little water in an engine bilge, a squeak from a presently unknown source in the rigging, dripping wet outside, coated in dew inside. The little Yanmars are ticking over pleasantly, after muscling their way through wind, waves and a foul current.

We’ll make Turtle Bay early this afternoon, a patch of bashing still to go as we draw near. There we’ll take on fuel, dealing with the “turtle mafia” notorious for under-filling and over-charging for diesel. We’ll wait out weather, currently planning to depart just before midnight tomorrow. It’s one more gauntlet of bashing to run at the start and then it should be calmer conditions the rest of the way. We’re past the halfway mark, but the leg from Turtle Bay to Ensenada is the longest one of the Baja Bash, 290nm distance, over 50 hours underway. 

Arnstein has done a great job in weather analysis and passage planning, solid as a rock on the boat. Jimmy has remained cheerful and energetic, despite sleeping(?) in a levitation chamber at the pitching bows of the boat and dealing with mild bouts of seasickness. As tough as it’s been at times, these two guys have made it way better for me. Feeling grateful.

Baja Bash Resumes

Man O' War Cove, Bahía Magdalena, BCS

PredictWind weather routing, Mag Bay to Turtle Bay- anything not blue or green is bashing

The weather forecast is looking favorable for a departure around noon tomorrow from Mag Bay.

We've revised our passage plan to go about 50nm further on this leg to take advantage of calmer conditions towards its end. Instead of stopping in Asunción for refueling, we'll likely stop in Turtle Bay. Unfortunately there we will have to deal with the "turtle mafia" for fuel delivery and pay a higher price for diesel. But potentially avoiding 10 hours of bashing seems worth it.

This evening we had dinner with the crews of the three other boats anchored with us here in Man O' War Cove. The small restaurant in the village ashore opened just for us and served a buffet of fresh fish, shrimp and lobster washed down with Pacifico beers. We had a good time. We're all departing here within less than 24 hours of each other, so the read on the weather forecast seems pretty consistent among boats.

We had a nice time here, bobbing at anchor in calm waters. We did a little hiking with two local dogs, went on a beach run, explored a mangrove, dug clams (and ate them), checked the engines, repaired a chafed lazy-jack line, made bread, read, made phone calls, slept, napped, showered.

Now we have a two days of sailing ahead of us. There will be bashing. How much and for how long is to be discovered.

Waiting Out Weather

Man O’ War Cove, Bahía Magdalena, BCS

Fishing boat heading with us to Mag Bay

The bashing began at 10pm last night and continued at various levels until we turned into Bahía Magdalena, “Mag Bay” around noon. We’re anchored in Man O’ War Cove, off a small fishing village along with five other boats who are waiting out weather with us before continuing on the next leg of the Baja Bash.

The bashing was no better or worse than I expected. It was better doing it than imagining it. But it was a lot of bashing and there is a lot to go. It’s very tiring. Jimmy and Arnstein soldiered through their watches. I’m very grateful for their help in moving Intermezzo along. I’m also grateful for Intermezzo’s two little Yanmar diesels that thrummed along, giving their all to push through head seas the whole way here.

Nothing much stands out for me from the trip here. This anchorage is pleasant enough and it’s nice to be in flat water even when the wind is blowing.

High winds will keep us here until Saturday. Then we’re back to bashing.

Follow Intermezzo on the Baja Bash

Forgot to mention/remind that you can see where Intermezzo is and our track since leaving Puerto Peñasco at:

https://share.garmin.com/sjcox/

Click on View All when you get there. 

En Route to Man O’ War Cove

10nm SW Punta Pescadero BCS, Pacific Ocean

We left Puerto San Jose del Cabo in the dark at 4:30am this morning to begin Leg 1 of the Baja Bash to Man O’ War Cove in Bahía Magdalena.  We timed our departure to have calmer conditions as we rounded the notorios Cabo Falso at the tip of the Baja California peninsula. Well, to be honest, Arnstein timed our departure and he hit it right on the money.

There was nice northeasterly breeze blowing as we headed southwest to the cape during my watch, so I even got to sail for an hour or so. A final goodbye present from the Sea of Cortez, perhaps. As we approached Cabo Falso, the wind coming from the Sea was overpowered by the wind coming from the Pacific Ocean, veering rapidly clockwise around us to blow from the northwest. The temperature dropped precipitously and I was glad I had put on long pants and a fleece top.

We motored against 13 knot winds with gusts to 18 but the seas were two feet or less and not steep. Bashing Level (BL) 1. Way better than I had feared.

As we rounded the cape, the wind dropped, the wave period increased and we continued under overcast skies in comfortable conditions that have continued. This afternoon it has warmed up a bit, too.

Crew seems happy and comfortable. We are working a “threes and sixes” watch schedule, three hours on watch, six hours off.  It is downright luxury after sailing 710nm singlehanded from Puerto Peñasco. Intermezzo is running nicely, clean and organized.

The forecast has me expecting relatively comfortable conditions (BL 1, periods of BL 2) until perhaps until late tomorrow morning. But then the wind will start piping up and we’ll likely see true speeds in high teens, gusts in the 20’s and steep seas, moderate bashing (BL 3) maybe worse. The sooner we can turn into the shelter of Bahía Magdalena, the better. We’re making good speed at over six knots which helps.

Baja Bash Begins

San Jose del Cabo, Baja California Sur

We leave tomorrow morning at 4am. The real Bash will begin as we round Cabo Falso around 8am.

Arnstein has inspected the boat. Jimmy has been briefed. We are ready to go.

Looks like we have boisterous conditions getting around the cape, a bit of reprieve as we hug the coast heading north, then blustery winds as we approach Bahía Santa Maria.

Then we wait. Strong winds and the heavy seas they create looks like they will keep us in port for five days. We’ll anchor in Man O’ War Cove to have better shelter and more to do ashore than in Bahía Santa Maria.

I’ve not been feeling good about this passage, apprehensive. Now I’m feeling like it’s just something to get done. Safely. Make the most out of it.

Here we go.

Nice Farewells from the Sea of Cortez

Cabo de San Jose, Baja California Sur

Perhaps the Sea of Cortez knew that I was saying goodbye and was sorry to be leaving.

On Monday evening, I took the paddle board to shore and went for a long run along the curved beach of Bahía Los Frailes. I am fond of mobula rays and had been seeing them skimming the surface frequently while sailing, but none doing the aerial acrobatics that I enjoy watching. But as I ran along the beach, the mobula were leaping out of the water, twisting, somersaulting, showing their bright white bellies, flapping their wings, and landing with a big, slapping splash, as if they were waving a exuberant farewells and trying to buoy my spirits. They succeeded. Goodbye mobula, thank you.

Yesterday, the Sea gave me the gift of a nice northeasterly breeze so that I was able to sail most of the way to Cabo de San Jose. The interaction of the boat with the wind and the waves, the absence of engine noise, the simple pleasure of keeping the sails trimmed reminded me of why I love sailing. I didn’t do enough sailing on this trip, haven’t done enough for a long time, won’t be doing much on the next two legs. Goodbye Sea of Cortez, thank you.

We pulled into Puerto San Jose de Cabo in the afternoon where Jimmy was waiting at the slip and joined on as crew. He and I hit it off well from the start; good conversations, shared sense of humor and the right level of seriousness around the boat, sailing and our upcoming passage.

Now we prepare the boat and wait for Arnstein to arrive to begin the Baja Bash.  The weather is looking favorable (in a relative sense) for a Saturday night departure. Wind and waves against us, but of manageable magnitude.