I drifted in the anchorage this evening sitting in the dinghy watching the sunset and saying goodbye to La Paz, feeling melancholy. Intermezzo has visited this small city in 2015, 2017, 2018, 2021, 2022, 2023 and presently and I am very fond of it. I don't know when, or even if, we'll be back. Tomorrow we resume my San Francisco Bash and head to Los Muertos, the first of two stops on the way to Los Cabos. We will soon be bidding farewell to the Sea of Cortez and ending the first leg of the Bash.
Robin and I enjoyed a week together, spending most of it anchored in Caleta Partida, a favorite anchorage between Isla Espiritu Santo and Isla Partida. While La Paz was baking in over 100 degree F days, we enjoyed more reasonable temperatures in the mid-80's. We got a few boat projects done, including the permanent installation of the Starlink dish, re-lacing the trampoline, and replacing the blown-out propeller anodes. Robin made good progress on ridding the cockpit and "lanai" are of boatyard dirt, dust and grime but there is still much more cleaning to be done.
La Paz was still baking when we returned and continues to do so. It's really hot.
Yesterday was full of mistakes. In the morning, I drove Robin to the airport in Cabo, but plugged the wrong airport into Google Maps, not realizing my mistake until we were caught in rush hour traffic there and had to crawl our way to the correct route. When I got back to La Paz, I accidentally ran a stop sign with a motorcycle cop right behind me which cost me some pesos. Later I left my debit card in the ATM when I went to the grocery store. Ugh.
On a more pleasant note, I visited my good friends Johan and Barbara yesterday evening, catching them just before they leave for a trip to Italy. I walked the 4.5 miles to and from their place in the heat. It was good exercise, but sweaty. I really enjoy my friendship with them and glad that we could get together, even if only briefly.
La Paz is rich with favorite places and memories for me. Dulce Romero's for croissants, Sorstis and Nim for nice dinners, Doce Cuarenta for coffee, the malecón for walking and sunsets, Aramburo for groceries, Marina de La Paz and its cruiser community, Sea Otter Jimmy the outboard guru, George of s/v Thalia, all the small hardware and marine stores scattered around town, Marina Palmira, Intermezzo's home in 2018. The town has grown since my first visit in 2015 and is gentrifying, for better and for worse, but remains one of my favorite cities in the world.
I've been in contact with my crew for the second leg of the trip, the Baja Bash. Jimmy will join the boat on June 4 and Arnstein on June 7. We'll be sailing 760nm together, uphill. I'm definitely looking forward to having able-bodied sailors on board for that leg, which we'll complete as quickly as weather permits.
Goodbye, La Paz.
